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Buckled rim: true it or replace it?

A wheel that rubs on the brakes is not necessarily lost. But there is a clear line between what truing can put right and what it never will — and many riders pay for two or three trueings before they find out where it lies.

Workshop advice4 min readVelox — La Guerche-de-Bretagne

Checking a bicycle rim for true on a machine in the Velox workshop
Checking lateral runout in the workshop — the adjustment is made by hand, with the machine to back it up.

Before knowing whether a wheel can be saved, you need to know exactly what ails it. Three different faults hide behind the word “buckled”, and they are not corrected in the same way.

Lateral runout, radial runout, dish: three separate things

Lateral runoutC'est la déformation latérale. Vue de face, la jante part à gauche puis à droite pendant qu'elle tourne. C'est le défaut qui fait frotter les patins de manière irrégulière.
Radial runoutC'est la déformation verticale. La jante monte et descend à chaque tour, comme si la roue n'était plus tout à fait ronde. On le sent dans les mains plus qu'on ne le voit.
DishC'est le centrage de la jante entre les points de fixation du moyeu. Une roue peut être parfaitement ronde et sans voile, et rouler décalée dans le cadre.

These three settings are linked: correcting one often disturbs the others. That is why an improvised truing job frequently ends up creating a radial hop where there was none. Spokes cannot be adjusted independently — each one pulls on the rim and alters the balance of all its neighbours.

Always check with the tyre removed

These three faults are read on the rim, never on the tyre. A tyre whose bead is not seated evenly in the rim well will wobble on every turn even though the rim is perfectly straight: you would be correcting a fault that does not exist. Conversely, thick rubber draws the eye and hides a real two- or three-millimetre wobble.

So remove tyre and tube before judging anything, and take the rim sidewall as your reference — not the top of the tyre. A brake pad, a frame dropout or a screwdriver simply held against the frame makes a good enough gauge.

What an adjustment can put right

A moderate fault on a still-sound rim corrects very well. In practice it is a tension disorder: one or more spokes have slackened over the miles, and the rim has moved to the opposite side. Tension is restored gradually, in small touches, checking lateral runout, radial runout and dish together.

Two conditions must be met. First, the rim must have kept its shape: it is the geometry of the wheel that is being corrected, not that of the aluminium section. Second, the spokes must have some margin left: if some are already at maximum tension and others almost slack, there is nothing left to redistribute.

Five signs that an adjustment will not be enough

  1. The rim shows the mark of an impact

    A flat spot, a dent, a bulge visible to the eye on the profile. Retensioning the spokes around a deformation of the material only moves the problem: you get a wheel that runs true at the price of wildly uneven tensions, so a wheel that will fail somewhere else.

    → Rim to be replaced.

  2. The spokes are at the end of their range

    Impossible to tighten any further on one side, impossible to slacken any further on the other. The adjustment range is used up. Forcing it means working in permanent fatigue: it is the nipples, the spoke heads or the rim holes that give way next.

    → Full rebuild required.

  3. Hairline cracks starting around the spoke holes

    Look closely at the spoke holes, inside and outside the rim. Fine star-shaped cracks around an eyelet announce a failure. A cracked rim cannot be adjusted, whatever its apparent wobble.

    → Rim at the end of its life.

  4. The braking surface is worn

    On rim-brake wheels, the sidewalls wear away with the pads. Many models carry a wear indicator — a groove or a small dimple — that disappears when the limit is reached. Run a finger right round: if the sidewall has gone concave, the wall is too thin to carry on.

    → Rim to be replaced, regardless of the wobble.

  5. Several spokes have broken in the same area

    A spoke breaking by chance happens. Two or three breaking one after another in the same area is fatigue: the others from the same batch have lived through the same history and will follow. Replacing one spoke at a time simply prolongs a problem that will not go away.

    → New spoke set.

How we go about it here

We do not straighten a rim that is beyond use. When a wheel arrives for reconditioning, the rim, the spokes and the nipples are new. The hub is the customer's own. The wheel is then laced on our lines, brought up to tension, with lateral runout, radial runout and dish set by hand.

In short

  • A moderate fault on a sound rim adjusts very well.
  • A dented, cracked or worn rim cannot be adjusted: it must be replaced.
  • Spokes at the end of their range mean the wheel is to be rebuilt, not touched up.
  • In every case, the hub is almost always worth keeping.

Is your rim beyond use?

Send us the hub on its own. We build a new wheel around it, set for lateral runout, radial runout and dish, and it leaves within 48 to 72 hours — return carriage included.

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